Arts and Culture Road Trip on Two Wheels
Exploring the Arts and Culture on Sugar River Valley's Scenic Routes
Verona, Wisconsin is an ideal launching point to explore the rich arts, culture, and landscape of the Sugar River Valley, and what better way than via motorcycle?
On this long weekend trip we explore the Swiss immigrant heritage of New Glarus, the Scandinavian traditions in Mount Horeb, performing arts at American Players Theatre, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Taliesin, and more. This region lies within the traditional lands of the Ho-Chunk Nation; their long history in this region is best told in their own words. Additional reading, including a historical map of the Sugar River Valley from 1828, is here.
Our weekend homebase was Holiday Inn Express & Suites in Verona, WI. Centrally located in Verona and with quick access to the highway, this clean and well-run accommodation has us perfectly positioned for our 4 day motorcycle tour of the surrounding area.
Day 1: Swiss Heritage in New Glarus
New Glarus is a charming Swiss-inspired village with a rich history that asks travelers to step back in time. Founded in 1845 by Swiss pioneers who sought a new beginning in America, this enchanting town retains the Old World charm and Swiss culture that arrived with the immigrants. The choice of this location by the Swiss immigrants was deliberate, as they were drawn to the rolling landscapes and fertile soil that reminded them of their homeland in Switzerland. Read here for more history.
Our first stop, the Swiss Historic Museum & Village, was a treasure trove of Swiss pioneer life. Each of the 14 artifact-filled Swiss Historical Village buildings, including a settler's cabin, a collectibles shop, a school, a blacksmith's workshop, and more, offers a glimpse into the past. Don't miss this immersive experience.
Next, visit the Swiss United Church of Christ, a historical gem built in 1900. It's a testament to the Swiss settlers who arrived in 1845. Services were conducted in German until 1950, and the church bells themselves were imported from Switzerland in 1852. Don't forget to explore the Chalet of the Golden Fleece Museum, a stunning Swiss chalet listed in the Wisconsin State Register of Historic Places and the National Register of Historic Places.
For dinner, indulge in Swiss-inspired cuisine at Glarner Stube. Try the Prime rib sandwich or Kalberwurst, paired with a side of Rösti, a giant cheesy hash brown pancake. The restaurant boasts a unique copper bar, and you'll find an impressive selection of New Glarus beers on tap.
Day 2: Epic Arts and Crafts Day in Verona and Paoli
Start your day with breakfast at Sow's Ear, a great cafe and legitimate yarn shop in Verona. We recommend trying the Broccoli Cheddar quiche and Peanut Butter and Jelly on house sourdough.
Next, head to Paoli Mercantile, a charming shop with plans to offer classes in linocut, printmaking, jewelry, and basic metalworking. While you're there, explore the selection of pottery, jewelry, and art. Continue the artistic journey by exploring the various other shops in the heart of Paoli. For lunch, an easy and affordable option is Paoli Pub where dedicated motorcycle parking awaits. Try the chicken nachos with homemade chips or the pub burger. Want to take part in a Wisconsin tradition? Visit Paoli Pub on the 3rd Sunday of the month for their monthly meat raffle.
Enroute back to Verona, stop by and chat with Gretchen, Heidi or Becky at the Crimson Art Collective. They run a ceramic art gallery and studio that offers pottery classes, bulk clay ordering and includes a small gift shop on site.
Next up: take in the incredible art collection and architectural wonderland that is the campus of Epic Systems. Their self-guided tour (10am - 3pm on weekends and 2:30pm - 5pm on weekdays) could easily take up more than 3 hours as you wander through what is rumored to be one of the largest private art collections anywhere. The tour is so fantastical, you may forget you’re walking where people work. When you’re done, swing by Kismet Books, a delightful women-owned bookstore in the heart of Verona.
For dinner, another Wisconsin cultural mainstay is the Friday night fish fry. 5th Quarter in Verona has a dedicated fish fry menu and does it right. Our favorite is deep fried cod, with baked potato and a side of brandy old fashioned, sweet.
Day 3: The Performing Arts, Outdoors
Start your morning at another unique cafe for the second day in a row. Rocketvelo Cafe is part-coffee shop, part-bike shop, and part-coaching/training studio. Their “From the Farm" sandwich is recommended and combines Origin breads’ whole grain wheat, Pecatonica farm’s smoked sliced ham, Swiss cheese, and whole grain mustard.
After breakfast, grab your helmets and hit the countryside. Try to time your visit so that you can attend the Dane Arts event, which this year was held at the Farley Center in Verona.
Over 1,000 people gathered to celebrate local art including jewelry, painting, pottery, and more (click here for a list of the 2023 exhibiting artists!). There are also food trucks, live music and a unique art trail hike in the woods featuring installations made from materials that can safely decompose into the land. The art trail exhibition can be viewed from Aug 15th - Oct 31st.
The Sugar River Valley is positioned on the edge of the Driftless Region. The hills that the glaciers left behind, twisty roads and the rural setting are a motorcyclist’s dream. We rode County Highways J and T on our way over to Wisconsin Riverside Resort for lunch. Wisconsin Riverside (formerly Shifflet’s Bar and Grille) offers a huge outdoor patio overlooking the Wisconsin River and a larger menu with local favorites.
In the evening, immerse yourself in the performing arts at the American Players Theatre. We had the privilege of watching "Romeo & Juliet" at the outdoor theater, a truly unique experience. Snacks and beverages are available on-site if you’re looking for more (or if you skipped lunch). In this rendition multiple actors, including Romeo, performed using American Sign Language which added captivating physicality to the dialogue of this universal story.
We wrapped up with dinner at AzTec Taqueria, where the queso tacos and adobo tacos made for one of our favorite meals of the trip. We paired the meal with a pineapple margarita seasoned with tajin. After dinner, order a nightcap at Hodge Podge, a cozy cafe by day and a cocktail bar by night that’s next door to the taqueria.
Day 4: Prairie-style Architecture and Norwegian Culture
Day four takes us to the western edges of the Sugar River Valley for Norwegian heritage and the Prairie-style architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright. But first, begin your day with breakfast at Grace Coffee Co., a bustling spot with a great menu. The breakfast wrap and cold brews are favorites, but arrive early to avoid the crowd. The Sunday of our visit was particularly busy since the Wisconsin Ironman was underway.
Visit the Taliesin for a guided tour of Frank Lloyd Wright's home, studio, school and estate. Taliesin is a National Historic Landmark and a UNESCO World Heritage site. We recommend the 2-hour Highlights Tour as your introduction to the estate. Fun fact: the property once included a total of 1600 acres but in the 1990’s, the 800 acres with no buildings were sold off. Also, Wright allowed any married students (and any employees) to build and own their houses (and own the land) on the property. Another interesting site is the Midway Barn, a historic space that once housed Wright's personal animals and now stores farming equipment used on the vegetable farms.
After the tour, ride toward Mount Horeb and explore the Scandinavian roots of the town. Founded in 1861, this charming village witnessed an influx of settlers from diverse backgrounds, including English, Irish, German, and Scottish, drawn by the allure of its scenic beauty. However, it was the arrival of Norwegian immigrants, beginning with Andrew Levordson in 1871, that left an indelible mark on the community.
First, visit Open House Imports, an expansive store founded in 1966 that’s dedicated to all things Scandinavian, including a wall filled with clogs. Open House Imports is the historical center of Mt. Horeb’s Trollway so while you’re there, count as many of the trolls as you can (click here for a map). After all, this is the “Troll Capital of the World.”
To go further back in time, continue your exploration at the Driftless Historium, a museum delving into the history of the driftless region. The exhibits traced the evolution of the driftless area through time, from 30,000 years ago to modern-day tourism, commerce, and the resurgence of small-scale sustainable farming.
End your journey with a visit to Skål Public House. Try their roast beef lefse wrap paired with one of their 24 tap beers. If you're feeling adventurous, give axe-throwing a shot.
This motorcycle tour truly left us in awe of the arts, culture and history that are woven into the fabric of the Sugar River Valley landscape.
