Paddling, Pints and Swiss Delights
A 48 hour summer adventure in New Glarus and Paoli, WI
“Paoli is the perfect hub for the outdoor enthusiast who loves to explore by day and wine/dine by night. There is much to do within minutes of your home base including water activities, hiking, biking, great food and live music. Paoli is definitely not a “drive through” town; you’ve got to stop and stay!”
The small community of Paoli, Wisconsin boasts an outsized personality with Midwestern humbleness. Located just 12 miles from downtown Madison, this sweet and savory town is situated in the heart of the Sugar River Valley. Combine this with the rich Swiss heritage of nearby New Glarus and you’ve got yourself a one-of-a-kind Summer weekend that is enough to satisfy adults while also being kid friendly. This section of Sugar River Valley is the perfect playground for a weekend of outdoor adventure that pulls in history, Swiss culture, Wisconsin traditions, incredible paddling, hiking, and a healthy dose of ice cream, because… this is America’s Dairyland after all.
DAY 1: Seven Acres and Swiss Heritage
Start your weekend at the brand new Inn at Seven Acre Dairy Company. This boutique hotel sits on the banks of the Sugar River inside a converted 135 year old cheese factory. The rooms are well appointed, hospitality is incredible, and you’ll be well-positioned for the next two days of adventure.
A short drive takes you to Olson Oak Woods State Natural Area; a great year-round spot to get your legs moving after the drive to Paoli. We’d recommend the full 2.5 mile loop hike if you have the time (trail map) before heading to New Glarus for the evening.
Start your visit at the iconic, New Glarus Brewing Company. Free, self-guided tours and tastings are available Mon - Fri, from 10am - 5pm. Take your beer outside to the biergarten that overlooks downtown New Glarus and the Little Sugar River (a tributary to the Sugar River). Their bottle shop has fresh brews to go; we’d recommend buying a 4-pack of whichever Thumbprint series beer is in stock. Want to see more? Check out their hard hat tours for just $30 per person.
Dubbed “America’s Little Switzerland,” New Glarus lives up to its name with Swiss-style architecture snuggled into the rolling hills of Green County. The downtown is very walkable and we’d suggest that you start your stroll with an ice cream cone from Kennedy's Ice Cream. Then walk to the historic Puempel's Olde Tavern (pronounced “pimples”) which has been a welcome spot for travelers since 1893. Grab a Spotted Cow, and pair it with their traditional Midwest ham salad and a cheese flight (like a wine flight… but cheese).
Continue your Swiss town tour with authentic cuisine at the Glarner Stube (say it with me, “schtoo-beh”). They’re popular, so order a brandy old fashioned (sweet) while you wait and for dinner try the Kalberwurst, a mild veal sausage unique to this area and the original Glarus, Switzerland. Kristi’s Restaurant is also a great option with a well-rounded menu; try their risotto or Friday night fish fry.
DAY 2: Paddling, Live music, Great food
Roll out of the comfy beds at Seven Acre Dairy and into the Dairy Cafe; a counter-service cafe with just the right amount of breakfast options. This good time to plan out your paddling adventure over a great cup of coffee.
Sugar River Outfitters has everything you need for paddling day-trip. Single kayaks start at $48 and a three-person canoe is just $68, including the shuttle, life vests and great service. If you’re already equipped, you can also bring your own kayaks as we did and coordinate your own shuttle. We planned to put-in at Sugar River Valley Boat Launch which results in a peaceful 5 mile paddle back to Paoli over ~3 hours. For a shorter trip you could launch from Riverside Road boat launch - located north of Sugar River Wildlife Area Davidson Unit.
On the drive up to the boat launch, we stopped to explore Falk Wells Sugar River Wildlife Area. This offers a nice short hike with views of the river section you’ll be paddling. Continue on to the well-marked Sugar River Valley boat launch which has with plenty of parking.
Pro Tip: For more info on paddling the Sugar River Valley, check out Wisconsin River Trips, Miles Paddled and review a map of launch locations here.
This section of the gentle river is an ideal summer paddle; the shady river bends offer reprieve from the summer sun. You’re sure to see more birds and cows than humans. After 3 hours on the river you’ll be ready for a drink, lunch, and live music in a beer garden. Fortunately, the end point at Hop Garden and Molino Taqueria offers all of that and is conveniently located across the river from your accommodations at Seven Acre. Try the 18-hour smoked brisket sandwich and a Brandy Old Fashioned press in a bag.
Wander your way around downtown Paoli after lunch. Check out art at Paoli Art Shop, Shop local at Paoli Road Mercantile, and try cheese at Landmark Creamery Provisions. If you’re a cyclist, stop into 1 Oak Bicycles; an awesome bike shop + museum + velo lounge.
For dinner, head back to The Kitchen at Seven Acre Dairy. Try “This is the Whey,” a signature cocktail made from whey, coconut tequila, and pineapple juice. The delicious food menu features farmstead recipes with all local ingredients. Order the cast iron chicken thigh with a side of spaetzle. If you’re feeling brave, order their take on Wisconsin’s infamous Cannibal Sandwich. Finish your meal with a night cap of ice cream from the Dairy Cafe and if the music is still playing at Hop Garden, go catch the last show of the night!
“Seven Acre Dairy is a really great boutique hotel with a lot to offer in the area. Paddling to Paoli and hanging out at the Hop Garden’s Beer Garden was a great way to spend the afternoon after paddling. Live music, food, shops and we got lucky to be there when they were having their weekend farmers market”
DAY 3: Hiking the Ice Age Trail
Paoli hosts a lovely little farmers market on Sunday mornings. Visit the stalls on your way to breakfast in nearby Belleville. We went to Lingonberry Llama and are still daydreaming about their breakfast burritos.
For your morning adventure, try out a section of the Ice Age Trail - Montrose Segment. Try a 3-5 mile out-and-back for a peaceful morning hike that’s well marked and features light hills. This section will give you a taste of the larger, 1,200 mile Ice Age National Scenic Trail. You can view a trail map here.
To cap off your weekend, stop by Verona Beach (aka Fireman’s Park) for paddling, fishing or swimming and a splash pad. A day-pass is just $2 for kids and $3 for adults. This spot is a perfect coda to your summer weekend in the Sugar River Valley.
“Paoli is such a cozy and charming little town where you can easily spend an entire day and not get bored. There was so much to do in such a small area: hiking, biking, paddling, shopping, music, and great food.”
